soil

The perfect soil does not exist and most gardeners have to make do with whatever nature or the house builder has left them. The soil itself ultimately governs which plants will grow well and anyone who doubts this should try to grow rhododendrons on chalk or lime. This plant and an alkaline soil are quite incompatible. Soils in Britain vary enormously between heavy clays and light sands. A child can tell the different between muddy clods of clay and dry sandy grains and these physical differences matter to the garden.

Clay is made up of tiny particles so small that they cling together and will not easily allow even water to pass between them. They have the same effect on a spade or the root of a plant. Sand, on the other hand, is made of comparatively enormous grains. They are so large that water washes easily through them and incidentally drains away a lot of nutritional material. They are so loose that sand will pour off a spade and give little support to a root system.

There is a definition of the two extremes and the particle size ranges between them but the gardener can usually tell at a glance or a prod. Science can tell the gardener the chemical constituents of a soil in minute detail but all that most people know whether soil is acid or alkaline. Some plants show a marked preference for one or the other so a simple testing kid from the garden store or centre can save the gardener a lot of frustrated efforts.

Testing is simply a matter of mixing a sample of soil with a chemical to obtain a colour code reading. Acidity or alkalinity is usually expressed as the Ph number. Seven is neutral. Any number down from seven is increasingly acidic and any number above seven is progressively alkaline. Most plants like the soil to be Ph6.5 that is just on the acid side of neutral.

Your Garden Soil Needs Food

The gardener calls it compost. It can be almost any organic matter and, except in Fenland-type soil where the earth is made of half-rotted vegetation, it will always benefit the garden. Thrown out kitchen vegetables (not root vegetables), horse or farmyard manure, straw, hope, or even woollen waste, together with the obvious greenery from the garden, will rot down to form compost.

It is the cheapest way of keeping a healthy fertile soil. Compost heaps will differ in construction and contents but they all need air and water, If they are too dry, waterlogged or airless, they do not rot or heat up enough to destroy the seeds of weeds or crops and may encourage disease.

Two or three square bins about forty inches wide are useful size for the average garden. One full for spreading, another rotting and the third being filled is an ideal routine. If the bins are made of wood, half inch gaps between each spank will ensure an air supply and a solid or polythene cover will stop the compost getting too wet. As each layer of refuse is dropped on to the heap a sprinkling of nitro-chalk or commercially produced rotting agent will help bacteria to break down the vegetation.

A light dusting of lime should be applied every few layers to prevent acid build-up which can prevent the complete breakdown of vegetation. Quick decay is helped by moisture and warmth, April to October are the best months.

Garden Mulching & Liming

The garden can be improved and capping prevented by mulching or throwing a layer of loose organic material on the soil. Bulky organic matter like straw, peat, lawn mowings or even soft green hedge clipping, just scattered on the soil will prevent the surface becoming compacted, slow down evaporation by holding moisture, smother weeds before they grow and slowly rot into the soil.

It sounds almost too good to be true, but there are possible snags. As always in the garden a balance has to be kept and while increasing bacterial activity in a mulch on the surface, a gardener can be robbing soil below of nitrogen. So a quick acting nitrogen fertiliser added ten days to a fortnight after mulching will correct the condition.

Mulching may look untidy, particularly with straw, but the benefits are considerable and many gardeners feel that a mulch spread between rows of vegetables like peas and sprouts helps prevent their own feet trampling the top soil solid.

The last main problem of mulching is that when vegetable material breaks down it creates acids. These are not necessarily harmful but they do slow down plant growth by interacting with materials like calcium. Excessive acidity is corrected by adding lime to the soul in one of the following forms:

1 Quicklime as the name implies acts fast. It can often generate enough heat on reacting with damp soil to serve as an insecticide.

2 Hydrated lime works at almost the same speed as quicklime but it can be handled more pleasantly.

3 White chalk or finely ground limestone has to be used in greater quantities than quicklime to achieve the same results.

The foundation of any garden, be it organic, container, square foot whatever, is it s soil but how many of us actually understand how these soils develop into the different types we have in our garden mine is almost solid clay. It is my frequent mutter that you could take a spade of soil and dump it straight onto the Potter s Wheel!

Soil is created from the primeval actions of the earth in its growth and development. Formed of rock mixed with vegetable and animal material over eons of time it becomes the friable and crumbly humus we like to have in our gardens. As the rocks moved and collided they were gradually ground down to form the fine particles that we associate with our soil, and so it still goes on. Many of the particles dissolve in water and are mixed with the decaying biological material to form a slurry that eventually dries out and is deposited as soil.

During the formation of the earth much of the slurry that was created went through a great deal more before it became the soil we treasure today. Often the dissolved rock would be compressed and subject to huge temperature changes which reformed it at a molecular level. The effect of heat, cold and weather caused more crumbling and eventually those rocks would break down as well. This mechanical action would form relatively large particles of mixed animal, vegetable and mineral matter akin to the sandy soils which are so easy to work and which have such good drainage properties.

Clay Soils, with which I am only too familiar, are formed in a slightly different way. The rock from which it was formed is attacked by acids in the atmosphere, mainly generated from Carbon Dioxide. This produces a chemical change, rather than the mechanical one which produces gritty, sandy soils. Vast amounts of water are required to create this kind of chemical change and the resulting mud based soils. This also has a dramatic effect on the way the soil behaves when it is waterlogged. Gritty, soils allow the water to flow through but clay flocculates, or flows together, and forms lumpy masses so however much other material you work into it, it will always be clumpy.

Soil Acidity is also critical to the well being of your garden. Many plants are tolerant of high or low acidity, though there are some which are not. For example if you want your Blue Hydrangeas to stay blue then you need an acidic soil with a low pH value. The acidity of the soil affects the solubility of nutrients and their availability to the plants, highly acidic soils can have high concentrations of iron and aluminum which will be toxic for a number of plants. Acidity is caused by rainwater leaching away alkaline minerals, the decay of organic material and the formation of weak organic acids within the soil. This acidity can be counteracted by using lime bearing soil additives in just the same way that you would add composts and soil conditioners to sandy soils.

The quality of your garden depends on the quality of your soil and how you care for it, so it is wise to be aware of the type and condition of the soil when planning and planting your garden.

A soil test allows a land owner to balance the potential impact of harm from soil contamination against the cost of undertaking a cleanup operation with the advice of a soil testing lab.

Soil testing is used as part of contaminated land rehabilitation projects to determine the presence and levels of harmful substances. A site is deemed to be contaminated when areas or the entire site has toxic chemicals in the ground that are harmful to humans or the environment at levels higher than those normally found in the region.

Soil testing companies are able to test for the presence of heavy metals like arsenic, lead, mercury, and zinc, other toxic metals such as cobalt, beryllium, nickel, and chromium, carcinogenic solvents like toluene and benzene, oils, fuel additives, radioactives, cyanide, pesticides, poisons, and fertilizers.

These substances can make their way into the ground from sites of heavy industry like smelters and factories, manufacturing plants, transit infrastructure like airports, docks, the roads, rail yards, and other vehicle depots, from leaking storage tanks and pipelines, runoff from agriculture, waste disposal sites and dumps, and even from commercial and residential sources.

As well as direct exposure, contaminants can make their way into environments that have never directly housed toxic substances, by blowing onto the site from neighboring properties through the wind, or leeching into the local soil and groundwater through the underground aquifers.

Once a soil test determines that toxic substances are present on a site, you need to consider how likely it is to affect those who come into contact with it. This depends very much on which substances are present and their quantities, where the site is, and what it shall be used for.

Some contaminants can cause harm to humans simply by inhaling dust from the air, or by contact with the skin and mucus membranes such as the eyes and mouth. In other cases, drinking tainted water can cause health problems. Towns which have high levels of heavy metals in the environment show increased rates of birth defects, retardation of newborns, lower IQs, and increased rates of many types of cancer.

In agricultural areas, plants and livestock can also be affected by these contaminants in the same way, and after being tainted, can pass on toxic substances to anything that eats them through several stages of the food chain.

In residential areas where children are likely to be present, contaminated soil testing is crucial, as lower concentrations of toxins are considered acceptable when compared with zones near heavy industry like ports and rail yards.

Moreover, children typically come into closer contact than adults with the dirtier parts of the environment by their nature, whether that means getting dirty while playing or ingesting dirt directly.

Government guidelines for contaminated soil testing and management vary across different regions, however, they tend towards an approach of risk management: It is necessary that some areas become polluted for the wheels of industry to keep turning, so town planning focuses on concentrating heavy polluters with waste disposal, landfill, and high-risk operations like chemical factories, away from the residential and commercial districts. When soil tests show the presence of toxic substances, it does not always make sense to launch a clean up operation, at least until levels get so high as to violate EPA regulations.

Instead, what action is to be taken depends on likely it is that the contamination will cause harm. The risk of damage to business and lives must be balanced against the potential impact of such harm occurring and the cost of remedy.

Fortunately, there are many ways you can commence soil remediation following unwelcome test results, with potentially cheaper options available for sites that have a low risk of causing harm.

Ideally, the leading soil testing labs will be able to advise you on which of these is the most appropriate for a given site.

In extreme cases, it may be necessary to completely excavate the affected soil, and seal it in below ground pits or an alternative waste storage repository. This is the method used to decontaminate areas affected by radiation and radioactive fallout, such as nuclear test zones, and the aftermath of nuclear power plant accidents.

Modern landfills are usually interleaved with layers of thick plastic membranes where there is a risk of contaminants reaching the groundwater, thus spreading.

Agricultural soil affected by excessive fertilizers and pesticides can be reconditioned by flushing with large quantities of water, as the containments tend to be concentrated water-soluble salts. Some contaminants can be bound in place with the addition of cement, while other harmful substances can be broken down by burning, rinsing with biodegradable chemical solvents, or with the addition of microbial agents into the soil.

When you think about soil, often we think of the black earth that we dig up when we stick a shovel into the ground. If it is good, it is typically dark and robust with some kind of animal life crawling through it. It may also be very moist and have an almost earthy smell to it with a saline content. Some may be dry, light-colored, the kind that you would see in a dry area near your household or in areas that have not gotten rained for many weeks or months. Whether or not you are working soils with clay, many rocks, or that you have mixed yourself that has a good mixture of compost, it is quite possibly one of the most important ingredients to a successful organic garden. Here are a few tips on how you can improve your soil so that your organic plants can grow quickly and easily.

The first step you should adhere to is not using any kind of soil that is hard or compacted. This kind has no moisture, may be full of rocks and excessive salt contaminants that may hinder the growth of your organic garden. Your best choice is to either purchase a premium batch of garden dirt that you can use to grow your garden with. You should also add some sort of organic fertilizer whether it is an organic compost or some compost that you have made your self if you happen to have a worm farm that is handy. If you have decided to grow your organic food in a small area such as a small container that you can fit into any room that you have such as a pots or a planter, this may be your best choice especially if you are new to organic gardening or gardening in general so that you can get a feel for how the soil should look and feel to the touch.

Another important aspect of soil is to make sure that the plants that you have are planted are in a mixture that is balanced properly. This means that the dirt needs to have a consistency that is not too wet or dry. Some that is oversaturated may create a situation that will grow fungal infections more rapidly and perhaps even cause rotting to the root system of the plants you are growing. Proper irrigation if in a pot or planter can be made by placing holes at the bottom so that excess water can drain out and stagnate, creating an even worse problem. Likewise, plants that are not watered enough will simply not grow, wither and die. As with humans, we all need water in a balanced amount that will keep us hydrated and healthy as we go through our day and plants are no different.

Organic gardening consists of many different types of plants, most of which are found in your common grocery store. The only difference is that you are growing without chemicals or pesticides that will potentially be harmful to you and anyone else eating the plants as well as cause growth problems with the vegetables that you are growing. Common choices for many indoor or outdoor organic growers are lettuce, eggplants, and even many types of beans. Strawberries are also a favorite if you are a fruit lover. Make sure to maintain the pH balance of your soil as well depending upon the types of vegetables that you are growing in your organic garden.

Last but not least, the greatest soil in the world will not help your plants survive if you do not have the proper amounts of heat or light while they are growing. He that is the most important factor to consider because as it is exposed to more heat, it will dry up more quickly, and the plants themselves will use water more quickly due to the increased temperature. Watching out for the right levels of humidity are also important regarding the hydration of the plants in the composting material that they are growing in.

Soil, that we take for granted every day that we walk upon as we go to the store, to the park, and as we mow the grass around our homes, when growing an organic garden, it is a top item on your list when looking to succeed a growing organically based foods. Take the time to make sure that your pH levels, compost mixture, and moisture content is all at the optimal levels you for you plant one seed into your potential organic garden and you will be well on your way to success and healthier food in no time at all.

Dogs need supplements just as much as humans do. In fact, if their primary food is commercial pet food, dogs need probiotics even more!

There are basic supplements that dogs require as they get older, like digestive enzymes, and others that they need throughout life, like omega 3/6 oils, minerals, and probiotics. Why probiotics for dogs?

Your Dog may Look and Act Healthy, But

Domesticating a dog is behavioral, but domesticating dogs diet has led to a growing health crisis. In order for a dog to be truly healthy, it needs to be fed a diet that resembles that of his wild ancestors, who hunt and kill fresh game. They supplement their diet by eating grass and dirt! More on this in a minute.

The closest you are likely to get is a raw diet consisting of free-range chicken, and grass-fed meat that are hormone and antibiotic- free. To this basic diet add supplements that replace the grass and dirt. If you do that, your dogs will be healthier, happier and live longer!

Perhaps the most powerful medical quotes of all time is completely ignored by American doctors and veterinarians.

"Fully 90% of all chronic disease is caused by an unhealthy digestive system" The Royal Society of Medicine, Great Britain

Probiotic Supplements and Intestinal Balance

Dannons' highly successful advertising campaign, back in the seventies, suggested that the Hunzas lived well over 100 because they ate yogurt- a probiotic! Never mind that the air they breathed nor the soil that grew their fruits and vegetables and raised their meat was pollution-free, or that the yogurt the Hunzas ate had little in common with Dannon or any other commercial yogurt. Yet, today there is fierce competition for your dairy-based probiotic dollar. Buyer beware!

Briefly, commercial grade probiotics, like yogurt or acidophilus supplements, comes from cattle that are not grass-fed, do not live in open pastures where they would exercise, breathe fresh air, and get vitamin D from sun light. Instead, they live in close quarters, toxic environments: They are injected with growth hormones and antibiotics. If there ever was any nutrient value to this milk, it was destroyed when it was pasteurized and homogenized. People and pets with dairy allergies are actually suffering from the effects of the care, feeding and processing of commercial dairy cows. People who switched to organic milk find they are no longer allergic!

Resolving GI related problems that have not advanced to chronic, is often as simple as giving them a daily probiotic! Why? Digestion and elimination are time sensitive. Too short, or too long, eventually leads to a health crisis.

The more processed the food, the more difficult it is for the digestive system to break it down. This takes a huge toll on the colonies of good (probiotic) bacteria as they expend themselves in their effort to find and assimilate the small amount of nutrient value.

The good bacteria not only aid in nutrient assimilation, they provide the balance against the bad bacteria. This balance is quickly upset when your dog eats tainted food, or a bacteria laden morsel. Heat and just the slightest bit of moisture (humidity) can quickly contaminate an open bag of dry dog food.

If you pay attention to your dog, you can see the early warning signs, which may include loss of energy, bad gas, bad breath, itchy skin, constipation, bouts of diarrhea or vomiting, and loss of appetite. These are quickly resolved with just a doses of probiotic supplements, and prevented with daily use. Prevention saves you money in the long run.

Chronic health problems develop when the bad bacteria maintain the upper hand in the GI tract over a long period of time.

The Ultimate Probiotic

Some 25 years ago, researchers noticed that feral animals not only ate grass, but pulled at the grass. Delving into why, they discovered that the dirt surrounding the root structure of grasses from organic soils were teaming with microflora and bacteria that had a probiotic effect in the GI tract.

Appropriately, these microorganisms were collectively named Soil Based Organisms (SBOs).

Let Them Eat Dirt

It seems like the simple solution would be to let your dog eat grass. Most domestic dogs live in environments that do not provide these essential digestive aids. Lawns, and dog parks are treated with inorganic pesticides, fertilizers, and chlorine from municipal water. These chemicals kill SBOs.

SBOs vs Antibiotics

Doctors know that antibiotics are toxic chemicals that kill off both the good and bad bacteria, and yet they neglect to use probiotic treatments! If this is not bad enough, the side effects of antibiotic treatment to your dog are the equivalent of being kicked in the groin.

Probiotics are live organisms natural to the digestive system. SBOs are scientifically proven to resolve GI disorders and are essential to maintain intestinal balance. Since GI disorders develop as a result of bad bacteria overwhelming good (probiotic) bacteria, the first course of action should be to restore the balance by administering SBOs.

A few doses of SBOs will quickly dispatch most cases of GI upset before you could be seen by a vet. Plus, when administering SBOs there is no need to withhold food or water!

Where can you get SBOs?

SBOs are not a prescription medication. They are available from Vitality Science on line, in a few select pet stores, and from holistic vets.

Culturing SBOs requires laboratory controlled conditions, using strict scientific protocols. Much like fermenting the finest beer or wine, the SBO culturing process cannot be rushed.

While just about any SBO formula will be beneficial, brands that consist of a variety of active SBO strains are more likely to quickly restore proper GI balance.

CAUTION: Things Can Go From Better to Worse- Temporarily!

As mentioned earlier, commercial pet food is hard to break down and digest. Consequently, it moves slowly through the intestines. Most likely some fecal plaque has adhered to your dogs intestinal walls. Once it gets a toehold, it thickens over time. Even fairly young animals can experience some blockage as a result of this build up.

Regular administration of SBOs will slowly begin to dissolve the fecal matter. During this clearing/cleansing process, pathogens and microbes that were covered up with layers of fecal matter will be exposed and can cause episodes of diarrhea or vomiting. Depending on the buildup, it may take a few months before it is completely removed.

During this time you are likely to see your dog reach new plateaus of happiness and energy. It can overwhelm them until they adjust.

Most cases of diarrhea or vomiting are the result of long-term food choices that are not probiotic friendly, or gulping down a pathogenic laden morsel. If you administer SBOs and your dog does not show noticeable improvement within 12 hours, take them to the vet immediately!

There is a complex invisible world beneath your feet and it is necessary to make an effort to develop an appreciation of how the state of the soil affects plant growth.

Soil is a mixture of tiny rock particles, living organisms, chemicals and the remains of dead plants and animals. Spaces between the particles will also contain a certain amount of air and water depending on the type of soil.

Rocks near the earth’s surface are slowly broken down in nature by a process called weathering. Eventually small particles such as sand, silt and clay are formed. These particles create the environment for billions of mostly tiny organisms to live. Larger organisms such as earthworms and insects are also found in soil. A healthy soil is teeming with life.

The main aim as a hobby farmer is thus to try to improve soil health by good management. Poor management can lead to a loss of fertility and degradation of the soil. In extreme cases the valuable topsoil can also be blown or washed away. In the end poor soils lead to low quality crops lacking in nutrition.

Below are examples of some checks I plan to carry out on my farm with the aim of improving soil fertility.

1) Carry out a pH test in different places. This test will determine if the soil is acid, alkaline or neutral. Most plants prefer a pH level around 6.5. Should the pH level be too (below 6) corrections can be made by adding lime. Should the pH be too high (above 7) this can be lowered by adding plenty of organic matter and mulch. Extremely alkaline soils can be changed by adding ground sulphur.

2) Check the soil texture of the soil by rubbing some moist soil between your fingers. This will help to determine the type of soil present. Sandy soils will have a coarse feel. These soils dry quickly. Adding lots of organic matter will improve sandy soils. Very sandy soil can also be improved by adding clay. If the soil feels sticky when rubbed it contains too much clay. Clay soils drain slowly and are difficult to work when wet. Adding gypsum will help in most cases. Should the soil have a good balance of sand, silt and clay you will be blessed with a loamy soil. These soils are generally easy to manage and do not require treatments.

3) Check the level of organic matter in the soil. This can be done by shaking a handful of soil in a jar and seeing how much organic matter floats to the surface. If only a thin layer is present on the surface, lots of organic matter needs to be added. This means more microorganisms can be sustained, these in turn will release essential health giving chemicals needed by plants.

The above tests are simple to carry out and much information is available on these topics. Further tests require equipment or a soil testing company to analyse the soil. These include salinity, especially if bore water is used. Individual soil nutrient levels for Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium as well as trace element levels can also be measured. Other aspects such as fertilizer application and cultivation practices to maintain soil structure also need attention.

Soil care requires years of experience and looking to older gardeners will give you lots of essential tips. Also, experienced gardeners can often identify soil problems by looking at the general appearance of plants. Getting a spade and digging around will give you information about conditions such as waterlogging and excessive dryness.

Do all you can to look after your soil and allow your plants to carry out the magic task of turning fertilizers and compost into healthy and nutritious food.

This article on is taken from Alf's Hobby farm site at http://www.farmforfun.com/Soil.html You can read more on hobby farming at http://www.farmforfun.com

The pH of your lawn soil is an important factor that affects how your lawn grasses will grow. The pH value is an indicator that tells you whether your soil is acidic or alkaline. A balanced soil pH will ensure that your grasses are growing optimally.

First of all, you need to do a soil test to find out the pH value. You can do this in two ways. The first is to buy a do-it-yourself soil pH test kit at any nursery near you and follow the instructions provided by the kit. The result is not highly reliable but it is enough to give you an approximate pH value.

The other way is to let a soil test lab do the test for you. Obviously this is more expensive than the first option but the result is much more complete and reliable. Moreover, the lab result often contains much more information about your soil and not just the pH value. A good lab report will also advise you the remedial action to take if the test reveal any potential problems with your lawn.

The pH scale range from 1 to 14 with a pH of 1 being most acidic and a pH of 14 being the most alkaline. A neutral pH value is 7.0 but most lawn grass will thrive in slightly acidic soil which has a pH value of 6.5 to 7.0.

If your soil has a pH value under 6.5, it is too acidic and you have to add ground limestone to bring it back into balance. If it is over 7.5, it is alkaline and you have to add soil sulfur.

To find out how much sulfur or limestone you need to add to your soil, obtain a soil chart from any soil laboratory, lawn and gardening centers or cooperative extension offices. The scale is usually based on pounds of material to add per 1,000 square feet. Thus it is imperative that you know the size of your lawn. If you have not done so, measure your lawn's length and width with a measuring tape. Multiply the two figures to get the square footage of your lawn.

Once you know the amount of sulfur or limestone required, use a drop spreader to apply these materials. A drop spreader is not expensive and will help your spread the materials evenly on your lawn. It can also be used to spread fertilizers. So invest in one if you have not done so.

You may have to apply sulfur or limestone on a regular basis in order to keep your soil pH in balance. Sometimes, applying both sulfur and limestone may be necessary. However, do exercise caution when applying sulfur as too much of it can burn your lawn. Break up the sulfur application over a few parts and apply them evenly will ensure that you have a pH balanced lawn for your grasses to thrive.

Oh sure, fried green tomatoes are ok; but I'll take an extra helping of friable soil any day! This is the desire of any gardener who attempts to sink a shovel into the clay found in our area. Clay just does not make a great sandwich. Takes a lot of mustard...

Ok, ok... put the wok and the peanut oil away; and don't forget to turn off the stove. I wonder how many times I've used the term "friable soil" in our garden center and not been understood? Their heads nod up and down but the eyebrows narrow in puzzlement and I have to wonder what horrible things are served at dinner later that day.

Friable means easily crumbled. Loose, open, un-compacted, well drained, friable soil gives the best results in most gardening situations. There are of course plants that will thrive in clay soil; otherwise Midwestern Ohio would be a barren desert! However the vast majority of desired ornamentals and food crops will perform better in a deep bed of improved soil.

Plants need to move and breathe!

A typical complaint I hear from the weekend home improvement landscaper “Our soil is so hard to dig in!” Well if it’s tough for you, it’s also tough for the plants roots to move in. And the more developed a plants roots are, the better it can grow and handle stress, drought etc. Also most of us know plants need water, but may forget that the roots also need oxygen. Dense, wet, soils have little “airspace” between the soil particles. Friable soil’s loose structure allows the water to drain through and lets the air in; making the plants grown there more tolerant of heavy rains or (gasp!) over-watering.

Add Organic Matter!

Spock: The organic matter content must be increased by a warp factor of 3.7 to aerate and provide structure for the Zabar nebula zenopods.

Captain: Scotty what’s going on down there!

Scotty: The organic matter generators dilithium crystals are all but shot Cap’n. She’s givin’ ya all she’s got!

The answer is much simpler here on earth. If you have a compost pile you already know about using organic matter in your garden. Double-dig, till, whatever it takes to get that stuff worked into your soil till have beautiful crumbly soil. Garden centers will also stock many kinds of soil amendments such as composted manure and peat moss. In our area, peat moss gives the most friability bang for your buck, but it’s worth asking what the best option is at your local garden center. Sometimes a local bulk compost source is available. If you have a large amount of soil to improve this is worth checking in to. If you are on a budget, do the cutting somewhere else! Always start with the soil! Adding organic matter to sandy soils also helps with soil structure. If the soil is too loose then it may dry out or not provide enough mechanical support for the plant. So you rarely go wrong adding organic matter.

One caveat

If you have very heavy clay soil, when planting a tree out in the yard, drainage can be a real issue. This is a situation where improving the drainage of the soil in the planting hole can really work against you. Imagine this basin dug into the clay filled with nice fluffy soil. It begins to rain. A man is singing and dancing in the street splashing in the gutters. The rain hits the hard soil around the basin; some is absorbed, some is runoff into the softer soil of the basin. All the rain that hits the soft soil of the basin flows right through it until... It hits the hard clay bottom of that basin and begins to fill it. Essentially we’ve created this sunken clay bathtub for our tree’s to drown in! Also if the soil is significantly improved in the planting hole the trees roots will tend to circle, hitting the hard clay and turning; “choosing” to stay in the looser soil. This can lead to a choking effect and a smaller root system.

There are other things to consider about your soil besides it friability. PH, nutrient deficiencies, microbial content, and contaminants are things that may be sampled, analyzed and treated; but nearly all my projects simply begin with a bale of peat moss and a shovel.

Hydroponics is a new agricultural or gardening technique that many still find risky to try. Hence, in an effort to help everyone, here are some general guidelines regarding both hydroponics and soil techniques. Many are interested in a debate on hydroponics versus soil culture, but I clearly point out that the two are not opposing each other. What we have to do is to appreciate both methods and weigh the pros and cons in specific day-to-day examples that we run into. There are major difficulties in implementing either hydroponics or soil techniques depending on the type of area devoted to agriculture.

A brief description of hydroponics and soil methods

If we are to objectively describe the pros of hydroponics or soil, then I will start saying that the most important advantage of hydroponics over traditional soil crops is that there is no soil dependence, plants can be cultivated as easily everywhere with the help of nutrient solution.

Another advantage lies in the absence of any plant diseases. Most of them are caused by the soil parasites that can be eliminated only through severe chemical treatment that no one loves. Also hydroponics offer a faster plant growth, it doesn't need too much space because the root is smaller than normal. Plant support and nutrient processing is being assured by the system, practically the plant only grows up. Furthermore, a very small quantity of water is needed, less than 10% of what a classical culture would consume.

To be fair in the hydroponics or soil dispute I will describe the main advantages of traditional agriculture or gardening. In the first place whatever the new ideologists think, most of the farmers feel more confident in soil cultures because they are not so dependent on power supply, they are simply as some say in God's hands, you don't need a timer to control a pump that will control the nutriments that flow to the plant roots. As it can be observed the chain is quite long and it may also seem quite weak.

Plants are naturally growing on the soil, so putting them in small boxes with some solution over their roots doesn't seem too natural for most people. The biggest advantage for traditional agriculture and gardening is that it is very cheap, easy to do and you don't have to be a scientist to know how to grow your vegetables.

A brief conclusion

The fact is that both methods are very good in their application to real situations, the small dispute between hydroponics or soil fans is not grounded because the traditional method is good in most cases and the hydroponic alternative works well, with higher costs, but at great standards.

Hydroponics has no chance of being more successful than traditional agriculture in rich-soil areas. But in those parts of the world where nothing grows because of harsh weather conditions, it is the only solution to grow fresh plants.

With the proper balance of soils and the right conditions, are important for roses to flourish beautifully. Although these are not frail flowers, caring for roses means a good deal of preparation work in taken care of before you begin enjoying their beauty. Roses require well-drained fertile soil, high in organic matter while having a particular pH. Although, some types of roses may enjoy a slightly different pH level, a pH level between 6 and 7 works wonderfully for all roses.

You must check the drainage in order to prepare the soil. Water the soil and measure the time in which it takes for drainage of water from the soil. Sluggish drainage of the soil may require other alternatives for rose gardening, such as container or raised bed gardening.

Fertile soil thrives with organic materials. In order to add organic materials, you will find various organic and chemical fertilizers available today. Although, the past has shown various chemical fertilizers that negatively influence our environment, today you will find numerous eco-friendly fertilizers in the marketplace. Remember to ask for assistance at your local gardening center while shopping to find just the right one. Organic versus chemical fertilizers are debatable by many as well as interesting tips and advice, off and online. In order to choose the best fertilizer for your rose garden, it is best to do your own research. All the while, keeping in mind that sometimes, each type of fertilizer whether organic or chemical may be the best for killing weeds, thus you must test and learn as you go.

Composting provides additional organic materials to the soil. However, when composting, it may require the addition of phosphate for pH level control. Remember to make sure that no diseased stems or leaves to into your compost, unless of course, your compost reaches temperatures high enough to kill the virus. If not, any surviving fungus, in the compost will attack your new plantings. Composting is an environmentally friendly method of adding nutrients to your soil, while being easily available. Although it may sound and smell unpleasant, one of the best organic materials you can add to your gardens is manure. However, always remember to wear your gardening gloves while working with this organic material. Layering cow or mushroom manure, adds the required organic materials, which enhance the growth of flowers.

A reapplication of fertilizers is required from time to time to keep the soil fertile for healthy roses. Whether you choose organic or chemical fertilizers or a combination of both for your gardening needs, you must determine when to apply it to the soil. Applying a fine layer of fertilizer weekly during the spring and mulching during the summer, is one good rose gardening tip. Depending on your regional climate, a fall fertilizer application may or may not be necessary. However, warmer climates may require the preparation of soil for winter gardening for continual blooms all year. This does not leave much time for the soil to recuperate. In other areas, winter rose care may include covering the soil and ground with mulch, while protecting the rose bush, giving the soil time to restore its nutrients.

One of the most difficult problems found in many parts of Australia is the presence of excess salt in the soil. Soil salinity is an indication of the level of soluble chemical compounds present.

Salinity And Natural Salts

Salts are released naturally when rocks break down, the most predominant being sodium chloride or common salt. Other salts include compounds of magnesium, potassium and calcium. When salt levels become elevated soils are damaged and crop production is diminished.

Salt problems occur naturally in the landscape, but many areas become saline due to excess clearing of vegetation, over cultivation and poor irrigation practices. The end result is that plants find it more difficult to absorb water from the soil; plants wilt more readily, produce less growth and in severe cases tissues are damaged. Eventually sensitive plants will die and salt affected areas show a greatly reduced variety of plant growth.

Salt Crystals And Soil Test

In extreme cases a white crust of dried salt forms on the soil surface and very few plants are able to survive.

The standard unit used when measuring salt levels is deciSiemens per metre (ds/m). This is measured using an electrical conductivity meter (EC meter). The greater the level of dissolved salt, the higher the reading These readings can be converted into a measure which is easier to visualise known as parts per million (ppm). A 1000 ppm water sample contains 1 gram of dissolved salt in each litre of water. Few crops are productive if salt levels are in excess of 2500 ppm. or 2.5 grams of dissolved salt per litre of water.

Irrigation In Hobby Farm

Sadly, salt accumulation has become a concern on my hobby farm due to the dry conditions and lack of fresh irrigation water. Reduced rainfall has resulted in the build up of salt near the soil surface. This occurs as water evaporates from the soil surface and salt crystals form. Irrigation restrictions mean I am unable to wash excess salt from near the root system of the young trees and these young plants are showing signs of stress. I expect many of the young trees to be damaged and not survive the next summer. Increased levels of salt are also causing the formation of a crust or hardening of the soil surface. This is damaging the basic structure of the soil and affecting the germination of some plant seeds.

Soil Salinity Mangement

These methods include:

- Raising soil levels by mounding the soil before planting,
- Adding organic matter such as compost,
- Not over cultivating soil and planting salt tolerant crops.

There is however no substitute for a good rain as this will wash away much of the salt which accumulates near the soil surface during times of drought.

Salt control is one of the more important problems to be faced if the hobby farm is to sustain a diverse range of plants and animals. Rainwater collection and storage will be vital if this threat is to be overcome.

Salt is an essential requirement for life, but in excess it is a sure recipe for disaster.

Various tests were performed by expert gardeners in order to conclude whether the soil has a good composition.

Some of these are: Compressing it in hand, and if the soil does not hold itself and crumbles without any external force applied in it, then that has a sand component that is a little high. If you compress it to form a shape and when you poke it does not fall apart easily, to much clay contained on that.

If you're still not sure about the soil composition you have, you can separate each ingredient by using this simple method. Put a cup or two of dirt into a jar of water. Shake the water up until the soil is suspended, then leave it for a while until you see it separates into 3 layers. The top layer is clay, the next is silt, and on the bottom is sand. You should be able to judge the presence of each component within your dirt, and act accordingly.

After analyzing the soil composition, and determined what is lacking or what is to be lessen, then,of course, you apply methods you learned to fix it. If you are to treat to much sand or silt, the best option to do is to add some compost or moss. And if you are to deal to much clay, the best thing to do is to add of peat moss and sand because the peat moss when moisten helps to infiltrate the mixture better. You can also consult an expert to have the best done for your gardening.

The amount of water present in the soil is also one of essential things to consider when preparing your garden. Inclined garden or it may be at the lower level, the site will, most likely, absorb to much water and plants will be drowned. If you think your garden will be on this scenario, make your area elevated for few inches (perhaps 4 or 5) from the ground so that it'll not be saturated.

You should spend the couple of weeks prior to the planting by adding fertilizer to your site because adding nutrients to the soil is also essential for plants to grow healthy. Mix your fertilizer well and once you have done this, you will surely have a soil that is ideally poised for planting.

Essentially, the procedure to soil preparation and care can be summarized in these steps: Ensuring the soil composition is satisfactory; ensuring the proper drainage for the site and putting fertilizer on the soil before it is planted. Once it is planted, you can add some more to ensure the growth of your plants. Following these steps will surely bring out the best of your home garden fueled by your essential care.

Soil-less

You see fish nibbling on plants in an aquarium, and seaweeds in the ocean, and you observe—these plants can grow without soil. You call this technology, hydroponics. Hydroponics is also called soil-less gardening, soil-less culture, chemiculture, and water gardening.

Taken from two Greek words—“water” and “work”, hydroponics simply means growing plants without soil. Hydroponics system is used to grow plants without soil in water to which nutrients have been added. Thanks to the people who conducted experiments on the feasibility for growing commercial crops using the hydroponic system in the early 1900s—a century before that, hydroponics was just used as a research technique.

Now, you will practically find hydroponic home gardens and commercial cropping operations all throughout the US and other countries—indoors or outdoors in various mediums, like water, gravel, sand, sawdust, vermiculite, or other soil-less materials. But don’t think that hydroponically grown plants are entirely different--like all plants, plants that are grown hydroponically need light, water, and oxygen to survive.

Hydroponic home gardens

Since hydroponically grown plants never come in contact with disease-ridden soil, they are healthier than their garden counterparts. In a hydroponic garden, the plants are also given an optimum balance of the nutrients they need. Hydroponic kits give specific instructions on how this is attained. The fruits and vegetables that are grown are therefore rich with the desired nutrients and vitamin content that are delivered via a solution rather than via the soil as in a regular garden.

Some mediums that have been successfully used are shredded compound like coconut or peat, rockwool (may come in cube form, a spun synthetic fiber found in potted aquarium plants). One of the best horticultural rooting medium that has been developed for hydro systems is a sponge, which is quite expensive. Another one that has been used is in grow rooms is perlite.

Hydroponic systems for commercial operations

For commercial operations, a big advantage for growing using hydroponics is that plants can be grown closer together rather than if they were grown in the field. The yield is much greater n volume. Multiple cropping or growing several plants or crops in the same tank can be practiced. Space is saved, and weeds and pest problems are eliminated when you use the right hydro sysmtem.

One downside that can be told for hydroponic systems is that the equipment can be costly, and personnel needs a lot of training. In addition, the amount of physical support required is tremendous. The plants are usually held upright by wire supports. Another option to grow hydroponics is to root them in a sterile medium, like pure sand or gravel. The elements, like nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and other essential nutrients that are normally found in soil must be supplied not only in optimum concentrations but in correct balance.

And more...eliminating toxins from the soil

Grow hydroponics—but there is more to this. Inversely, contaminated land can be cleaned up—by harvesting waste. It may seem strange, but possible by using plants that could suck up toxic metals from the soil. Land contaminated with metals can be cleaned up in an environmentally friendly way—by simply harvesting and disposing the plants that were earlier made to suck up the toxic metals from the soil.

"The earth is the mother of us all - plants, animals and men. The phosphorus and calcium of the earth build our skeletons and nervous systems. Everything else our bodies need except air and sun comes from the earth." -Henry A. Wallace, in the Foreword to "Soils and Men," the 1938 Yearbook of the United States Department of Agriculture.

Without soils, no life could exist on earth. The lowly bacterial cell and the massive pachyderm both owe their being to this basic stuff of life. A bird in flight, a mole burrowing beneath your lawn, borers eating blindly into the heart of a great oak - all are linked by their common dependency on the elements of existence they draw from the soil.

Of earth's living creatures, man alone modifies the land to better suit his ends. Not satisfied with soil as he finds it, he tears its surface, incorporates organic and mineral materials and alters age-old structures. He often keys his actions to two false but widely held ideas: 1, that soils are simply clay and decaying vegetable matter - a mechanical support for plants - and 2, that the easy-digging quality of the soil means more than its chemical-biological quality. The error of this overall viewpoint was thrown into sharp focus not so many years ago by the controversy concerning the use of synthetic chemical soil conditioners. These products often made soil easier to till but with no resulting improvement in quality of plant growth. The "organocultists", those who believe only in organic gardening, have much to say about all this.

Tips on Types

Soil type is important. Type is determined largely by texture, a word often used in the wrong sense. It means simply particle size, such as fine sand, gravel, silt, clay, and so on.

Particle sizes in soils range something like this (mm = millimeter; 25 millimeters equal one inch):

Mineral elements:
Clay - 002 mm or smaller
Silt - 002 mm to .05 mm
Fine sand - 05 mm to .25 mm
Sand - 25 mm to 1.0 mm
Gravel - 1.0 mm to 32 mm
Stones - over 32 mm

Organic matter in soils may range in size from as large as entire plants that have been dug under to as small as humus particles so fine that they form colloidal solutions. (In a colloidal solution the minute particles do not settle out, but float indefinitely.)

Based on the preceding information, here is a soil classification according to particle size:

Stony loams: soils containing more than 50 per cent stones over 1 inch in diameter. If remainder is sufficiently fertile, this soil type may have gardening value, although it will be hard to work.

Gravels: soils with over 50 per cent gravel and much sand. Practically no garden value.

Sands: soils with more than 75 per cent sand. Low garden value.

Fine sandy loams: soils with 50 to 75 per cent fine sand mixed with much silt and some clay. Fairly good garden soils.

Sandy loams: soils with 50 to 75 per cent sand and much silt, some clay. Among the better light garden soils.

Loams: soils with 35 to 50 per cent sand mixed with much silt and some clay. Most of the better garden soils fall in this class.

Silt loams: soils with more than 50 per cent silt and less than 15 per cent clay. Are too "tight" to be good soils without some modification.

Clay loams: soils with 15 to 25 per cent clay, much silt and little sand. Usually are good garden soils if not worked when wet.

Clays: soils with more than 25 per cent clay, usually with much silt. Can be good if handled properly.

Mucks: soils with 15 to 25 per cent partially decomposed organic matter with much clay and silt. Good for certain crops, but modification is usually needed for general garden use.

Peaty loams: soils with 15 to 35 per cent organic matter mixed with much sand and some silt and clay. If acid, are good for broadleaved evergreens.

Peats: soils with 35 per cent or more organic matter, mixed with some sand, silt and clay. Need more mineral matter to be suitable for garden use.

Like most break through discoveries, "The Missing Link" to GI Health was not so much intentional as it was the result of a research scientists keen mind examining disparate soil vitality studies and animal eating habit studies done over decades.

Most people are aware that, prior to the industrial age, farm soil (and lawn) grew healthy, disease free crops. These soils were teeming with organic micronutrients and soil based organisms, collectively known as SBOs (soil-based organisms). There is a direct connection between the increased use of inorganic pesticides/ insecticides/fertilizers, and chlorinated lawn watering to the loss of SBOs.

According to the Soil Scientists, topsoil (the top 6 inches of soil) that grows commercial crops is dead. Without SBOs, which are essential for plant health (as well as GI health), commercially grown crops lack nutritional value, taste, and are susceptible to disease. A connection can be made between decreased nutritional value and the increase of health issues.

A Brief SBO Primer

SBO's, or soil-based organisms, are tiny microbes that live in soil. According to medical research scientist Dr. William C.Bryce, M.D., Ph.D., among other functions SBO's produce and release powerful enzymes that sterilize the soil of putrefactive organisms, and thereby help prepare the soil to support new plant growth. Without SBO's, lush plant growth could not take place because the soil would be too contaminated with yeasts, molds, fungi, candida and other harmful organisms that are antagonistic to plant growth and reproduction.

The enzymes produced by the SBO's solve this problem by helping kill off huge amounts of the harmful elements in the soil. Dr. Bryce points out that in addition to the above function, SBO's also produce and release nutrients and growth hormones which, when absorbed through the roots of plants, help stimulate the reproductive cycle in the plants. For example, the growth hormones produced by SBO's are biologically activated to stimulate seed maturation. Simultaneously, these hormones also accelerate further numeric growth of the SBO colonies themselves.

The soil that grows fruits and vegetables have not benefited from SBOs for decades. Consequently, fruits, vegetables, and the meats from feedlot animals finished on fattening corn and citrus rind diets do not provide the same nutrient value, or vital force.

The 2006 spinach scare is but a recent example. The investigation revealed that cattle waste from the adjoining land seeped onto the spinach fields. If the soil the spinach was grown in was healthy and teeming with SBOs, there is a good possibility the ecoli would have been neutralized.

Why Do Animals Eat Grass?

Most people believe that they did so to settle an upset stomach. Scientific examination revealed that feral animals not only eat the top of the grass (for organic MSM-an important nutrient), they actually pull at the grass to get at the SBOs surrounding the roots. Why? SBOs are necessary aids to restoring and maintaining GI balance as well as for proper elimination. We eat mushrooms, so why not soil-based oranisms?

Digestion is a time sensitive process; too fast or too slow causes GI problems like constipation, Chronic Diarrhea, IBS, and Crohns Disease. GI health problems contribute to immune health problems.

To quote The Royal Society of Medicine of Great Britain "Fully 90% of all chronic diseases are caused by an unhealthy intestinal system."

One research scientist began connecting the dots about 9 years ago. Not only did he make the connection between SBOs and GI health, he went so far as to isolate and study how various strains of SBOs interacted with one another.

SBOs are Superior Probiotics

During the early stages of SBO research, advertisers made a huge push to promote the probiotic benefits of eating dairy-based probiotics (yogurt) to promote GI health. There are numerous problems with dairy-based probiotics:

* Many people (and animals) are lacto-intolerant
* Commercial grade milk contains growth hormones and antibiotics
* The shelf life of dairy-based probiotic strains
* Stomach Acids destroy most dairy-based probiotics

Today we know that SBOs are the superior probiotic, and that they are essential to restore and maintain optimum GI health in animals and humans. They also play a major role when dealing with immune diseases, as well as the toxic effects of chemotherapy and cancer medications, whose side effects include severely diminished bowel function.

It is important to know that SBOs are visitors to the GI tract; they need to be replenished daily to maintain optimum protection. Truly, SBOs are considered "The Missing Link" to restoring and maintaining health.

Gardeners know that good soil is important in their garden. But can plant selection be just as important as good soil?

You bet it can!

You can have the most perfect soil on earth and yet if you try to put the wrong plant in that soil, it will not grow for you no matter how well you prepare it or how perfect the pH level is.

Suppose you live in USDA Hardiness Zone 5 where temperatures can dip to as low as -10° F (-23.4° C). You decide that you love cactus and think a cactus garden would be fun to have. So, you want to get a jump start and prepare the soil in your garden until its sandy enough and registers a perfect pH level for cactus to grow very well in before you purchase the actual plants.

However, when you go to the garden store and read the plant tags and do some further checking, you find that cactus thrive where temperatures seldom dip below freezing. They grow best in warm dry climates ... something that Zone 5 definitely is not!

If you insist on trying to have and grow a cactus garden in Zone 5, you will want to be sure to do it indoors or possibly set up a desert climate hot house to ensure your success.

Or ...

You could consider the wide range of flowers and plants that DO grow well and thrive in Zone 5. You’ll still prepare or amend your soil accordingly to allow for the successful growth of those particular plants instead.

To determine which flowers and plants will grow best in your area, you can:

* Visit local garden stores and nurseries to see what plants are available; most local places will stock only what grows in that particular area.

* Check online at website retailers whose site includes a “plant finder”; Bluestone Perennials, Breck’s, or Spring Hill Nurseries are some that are available.

* Ask your gardening neighbor what flowers and plants s/he has head success with; ask about any failures too so you’ll know which items could prove a bit challenging to try growing in your garden area.

Choosing plants and flowers that grow well and thrive in your particular geographical location will ensure the success of your garden endeavors. If you make it a point to mix correct plant selection with that good soil of yours, you’ll have plenty of success growing almost anything you plant in your garden areas.

The use of chemical fertilizer is the cause of soil deterioration and water pollution. Biofertilizer, most of which are nitrogen-fixing microorganisms are considered to be suitable alternative source of plant nutrition Azotobacter fixes atmospheric nitrogen in the soil and makes it available to the plants. The objective of the study was to check the stability of marine azotobacter in the soil. In this study totally 100 samples were collected from the region of Palk Bay (thondi) at the death of 1 – 2m at the interval of 20days. At each time 10 – 15 marine and sediment samples were collected. Out of 70 marine water sample, all the samples showed the presence of Azotobacter, but only 23 marine sediment showed the presence of Azotobacter when grown on selective medium. Pot culture experiments were carried out, to determine the N2 fixing ability of marine Azotobacter in garden soil by assessing the growth of black gram. Five efficient strains were selected based on acetylene reduction assay for the experiment. Healthy black gram seeds were mixed with Azotobacter inoculum containing 1 × 109 cells seeds were immediately sown int the parts. Seed germination was calculated after 4 days of sowing which showed 85% germination in each pot than the uninoculated control. Shoot and root length of the plants were measured, which ranged from 21.4 – 26.3cm and 7.6 – 12.2cm respectively. The chlorophyll content was 0.41294-0.8587OD at 645 and 663nm. This study reveals that black gram inoculated with Azotobacter strain showed significant increase in shoot and root length and chlorophyll content as compared with non-inoculated contro